April 5th-7, 2007> Vaishno Devi

Honeymoon's over and it was the time for pilgrimage to Vaishno Devi. This is what a good Punjabi husband will do after marriage (btw I'm from the united states of Biharica and got married to a pretty Punjabi Girl). The planning for the trip was immaculate- 2 month's in advance (I didn't even do for my marriage). The biggest driver was my father's wish, who has been a regular visitor to the temple. My brother completed the family reunion and took advantage of offers on Sahara from MakeMyTrip.com so that we all could start on April 5th.
The time was right as it was a good Friday but unfortunately all the world had thought about going to Vaishno Devi's. No wonder even my train tickets was wait listed.

For travelling, there are many options
- Trains: Jhelam (everyday), Rajdhani, Uttar Sampoorna Kranti (Everyday, there is a special version which leaves only on Friday and return on Saturdays), Holiday Specials (Sun, Tuesday and Thursdays).

- Volvo buses (Rao Travels 011-41670704, 011-26144545) or you can also try Lajput electronic market in New Delhi for general local buses. The Volvos buses leave by 7.00, and always require prior booking.
- The total distance is about 600 kms, you can also get a cab for 8 rs/km. This option is advisable for a bigger group.

It required a miracle for my train ticket to be confirmed. I tried hard through my uncle who knew ways and mean to sort out a situation like I was in, but was of no avail. However, the good thing was that we had decided to go on the journey anyways and hence landed on the station with all bag and baggage. A good suggestion to all who are stuck due to travelling is the good old saying popular with tourists going for Vaishno Devi- "Aap Tabhi Jaa sakto ho, jab Maata bulaigi (you will go only when Goddess invites you)". Our chances to go were bleak and we had made plans what we will to celebrate my brother's homecoming. Since I was already on my way to get the refund for the ticket, Priya told me to check for Holiday Special, a special for the needy. I had no second thoughts when the person at the counter told me that there was vacancy (and I paid him some extra monies to celebrate my happiness). The train left at 12.00 (scheduled time for departure 9.10 and delay due to no patrol in the engine). And so began our journey, our return journey was however still not confirmed.

Maata Vaishno Devi's tale is famous for the victory of good over evil. During this was she hid herself in Adkuwari (first leg of the pilgrimage and about 6 kms from the start). Navratras festival celebrates her 9 month seclusion in this cave. She also beheaded demon called Bhairon, who in his dying moments said "Jai Mata Di", which is to be chanted on the way to Temple. Though it ended Bhairon's life, but the Goddess blessed him thereby making it a must to pay a visit to "Bhairon" Baba's temple, while visiting Vaishno Devi's temple.

We reached Jammu at 1.00 after our long 12 hours trip (it should take 9 hours). Originally we were suggested to take a bus from the station, but the bus station was 6 kms away. Owing to lethargy and sheer time pressure to start the first leg of our climb, we took a taxi. It took us 1.5 hrs to reach Katra.

There are a number of hotels and with flexible rates. I stayed in Bhawani's Paradise and payed Rs.1000 for a night for a Family AC room (which can accommodate 4 people). You can also go for a double/single room for half the cost. Additional beds would cost extra. Ensure that the room is comfortable as you will require it on your way back. Rooms are also available in the Bhavan (where the temple is), you can look for more information on Maa Vaishno Devi's Board Website. The board only second to Tirupati is generating funds. Our taxi driver informed us that last year the contribution is close to Rs.2000 crores (I'm sure this is over hyped figures). But the amenities that the board has provided is spic and span.

I was amazed with the electric mood that was prevailing across the devotees and so ifectious it was that I also got into the mood. Devotees come from from all places, one notable devotee is a 60 year old gentleman, comes here every month, travels all the way from airport to the temple on foot (about 70 kms). I saw a few who would crawl all the way to the temple, many sing in groups and dance; all of this will ensure that on the way to the temple you won't miss any fun. Even the ambiance is electric. You can find all the types of item to eat (except non-veg) i found corn, cafe coffee day outlet on the way. There are enough and more places where you can get photographs with Mata on the background. You will see Vaishno Devi's VCD (Gulshan's Kumar T-Series stores are ubiquitous) and bhajan's made on a popular Bollywood number. the excitement in the area will make you stop at all these interesting areas. In the festivity, the mood is set right by the Dholwalas accompanied by a set youngsters doing a bhangara jig.

I was surprised with the amenities available on the way- softy, juice stall, and notable in one of the stalls Golden corn. Even Cafe coffee day has its outlet. The food is primarily vegetarian, and the board has ably ensured that one is not devoid of food when they need it the most. All these services is 24 hours.

The total stretch is 12.5 kilometers. As I mentioned earlier Adkuwari is 5.5 Kms and Mata Vaishno Devi's Temple is another 7 Km uphill from there. Baba Bhairon's Mandir is 5 Kms from Mata Vaishno Devi. Ideally, the whole journey is a 3 day affair.

We started climbing at 6.30; we arranged the passes from my cousin brother in Army. Now a days there is lot of security check in at various points, because of which we actually started at 7.30. My father took a Pony to complete his journey till Adkuwari; which costed 160 Rs. "Palkis" for those who can barely walk is also available, these guys do only complete journey for Rs.2500. It was quite a delight to see the ways they walked in tandem and on the steep steps carrying a person on their shoulders. We also took a "Pithhu" to carry a luggage, as before darshan one has to take a bath. You should not pay more than 160 for one way. Deccan and one other company has started Helicopter service- one way fare per person is Rs.2500.

We took our dinner break in Adkuwari. We had the staple Rajma Chawal. Though further on there were options of Vada Sambhar and Dosa, but we were quite satisfied with the meal. We decided to skip Adkuwari, as we were already 3 hours behind schedule, and therefore we headed straight to Vaishno Devi. This new route, which we took, is new and saved us 2 Kms in total (this would make the total distance from Adkuwari to Bhawan as 5.5 kms). This route was relatively straight and without steep climbs. Here also we took three-four breaks for tea and coffee.

We had started panting when we reached Bhavan. The place was full with devotees, running into hundreds and thousands. Lot of them sleeping on the corridors and sides (you can get woollen blankets, "Kambals" for hire). There are also lockers to keep your belongings as leather items, bags and mobiles are not allowed in the temple. We got a place to sit near the bathing space and took turns to go. Priya went first and I was last. the water was freezing cold, but the contact took away all the stress and pain of the journey (actually I was contemplating not to take this holy dip). The cue for the darshan was long, however due to the defence connection, we had a much shorter line. "Jai Mata Di" was being chanted all along.

We first came to the cave where traditionally one would enter to go for darshan. This was during the earlier days. At this point in time and being completely ignorant, I thought this was the darshan and I was ready to head back. However soon we can to an open area and soon after entered a cave. Darshan was short and quick, it would have lasted for about 30 seconds till I was pulled away by one of the guards. On our way back we tied the cloth on the railings (traditionally one is supposed to wish and then tie and also open once the wish gets fulfilled).

We headed back at 3.30 and walked back much faster. We completed the descend in 4 hours flat, with only one break for tea and checked into the hotel at 8.30. I crashed out as soon as I entered the room as my body legs were aching. I wished there were some "Pithhu" who could massage my legs but alas. When we got up, we went for a great Vaishno dhaba lunch and ate to our heart's delight.

There was still a loose string in this journey, our return tickets were not confirmed. Actually we didn't bother much, as we did before the start of the journey. We had come this far and our faith that Mata would take care of the rest kept us going. Our return through Rajdhani was comfortable and we slept through the way!