December 10th-12th

First time I went to Thekaddy was in 1987, with four other families, when I was a 10 year quiet boy. The planning was at spur of the moment- during a get together the discussion on Periyar and Kerala took centre stage. My father and his friends concluded that they would go to Kerala and during the journey, we would take a break at Mark’s house in Kottayam, explore backwaters and proceed onwards for Periyar. This trip was very exciting and we had load of good memories and snaps as souvenir.

When I along with Priya went to Thekaddy again, it wasn’t too different. We stayed at Elephant court, which is right next to Taj’s famous Garden Retreat. The hotel is very is made with very discerning taste; the splendor of old Kerala architecture is embedded in every inch. The rooms were big, and great prompt service, though we had some problems with the warm water. Our room was changed immediately.

It was lunch time by the time we freshened up. We headed straight for Ambadi Hotel, which is one of the cherished memories. There was no construction then, and it was huge, with brown rice and Kerala curry. We made no hesitation to order our lunch in addition to beer. Food was fantastic; Priya also ordered Caramel custard, as the presence of foreigners could guarantee the quality. The hotel design had a good Lawry Baker “touch” which was not very evident from outside. The hotel was not as big, as my memory has drawn it to be, nonetheless it was a great being back here and having the hearty meal.

Our walk extended to the other end of Kumily (the city bordering Thekaddy) which showcased some great hotels- Cardamom County & Spice Village. By the way, you might some great deals on these hotel at MakeMyTrip.com. There were a number of showrooms mostly managed by Kashmiries and north Indians with high rates. Massage parlours are also ubiquitous (we went to Mayura, supposedly recommended by Lonely Planet).

The place is made for foreigners, as they come in plenty. There are a number of places that would cite the recommendation by lonely planet and rough guide. We went to one such place in sheer anticipation to try the flavour of recommendation. Priya ordered pancakes and I chose staple omelet bread. We didn’t enjoy it as much and seriously doubted the recommendation.

We also went for massage to Mayura’s (boldly advertsing its Lonely Planet Recommendation), which was about 12 minute walk from our hotel. The oils had a fancy name “KairiTailam” which would stand for “heal all oil”. The masseuse had recently come to Periyar, but had been practicing it for a long time. He had taken a place to stay right across the place and like a true Keralite, he loved football. He said that after 10.30 when he is back home, football was the only thing that would relax him. The massage set the tempo for the evening and our Chef, back in elephant court had prepared a wonderful dinner with an elaborate spread. We didn’t have too much and went back straight to bed, as we had to catch the early morning and the customary boat ride.

The sanctuary is worth staying if you could get a place in the middle of the lake, which is not available easily (and is very costly also). Otherwise you won’t be able to see much in the boat ride. We could manage to see a bison, a herd of wild boars and some birds. There is a huge population of tigers, though from a distance it didn’t seem like it. Periyar is India’s largest wild life sanctuary, and one need to devote at least a week to complete the exploration in all respects. We were however tourists and were contended with a boat ride. Fortunately for us the weather that day was really good and we were not completely exhausted when we came back.

That very day we were to leave Thekaddy. We tried for one last time to go to the tribal village, which we had patiently waited for on the day of arrival. We thought at least we could have made it in the first half. But to our dismay, we had to head back.

April 5th-7, 2007> Vaishno Devi

Honeymoon's over and it was the time for pilgrimage to Vaishno Devi. This is what a good Punjabi husband will do after marriage (btw I'm from the united states of Biharica and got married to a pretty Punjabi Girl). The planning for the trip was immaculate- 2 month's in advance (I didn't even do for my marriage). The biggest driver was my father's wish, who has been a regular visitor to the temple. My brother completed the family reunion and took advantage of offers on Sahara from MakeMyTrip.com so that we all could start on April 5th.
The time was right as it was a good Friday but unfortunately all the world had thought about going to Vaishno Devi's. No wonder even my train tickets was wait listed.

For travelling, there are many options
- Trains: Jhelam (everyday), Rajdhani, Uttar Sampoorna Kranti (Everyday, there is a special version which leaves only on Friday and return on Saturdays), Holiday Specials (Sun, Tuesday and Thursdays).

- Volvo buses (Rao Travels 011-41670704, 011-26144545) or you can also try Lajput electronic market in New Delhi for general local buses. The Volvos buses leave by 7.00, and always require prior booking.
- The total distance is about 600 kms, you can also get a cab for 8 rs/km. This option is advisable for a bigger group.

It required a miracle for my train ticket to be confirmed. I tried hard through my uncle who knew ways and mean to sort out a situation like I was in, but was of no avail. However, the good thing was that we had decided to go on the journey anyways and hence landed on the station with all bag and baggage. A good suggestion to all who are stuck due to travelling is the good old saying popular with tourists going for Vaishno Devi- "Aap Tabhi Jaa sakto ho, jab Maata bulaigi (you will go only when Goddess invites you)". Our chances to go were bleak and we had made plans what we will to celebrate my brother's homecoming. Since I was already on my way to get the refund for the ticket, Priya told me to check for Holiday Special, a special for the needy. I had no second thoughts when the person at the counter told me that there was vacancy (and I paid him some extra monies to celebrate my happiness). The train left at 12.00 (scheduled time for departure 9.10 and delay due to no patrol in the engine). And so began our journey, our return journey was however still not confirmed.

Maata Vaishno Devi's tale is famous for the victory of good over evil. During this was she hid herself in Adkuwari (first leg of the pilgrimage and about 6 kms from the start). Navratras festival celebrates her 9 month seclusion in this cave. She also beheaded demon called Bhairon, who in his dying moments said "Jai Mata Di", which is to be chanted on the way to Temple. Though it ended Bhairon's life, but the Goddess blessed him thereby making it a must to pay a visit to "Bhairon" Baba's temple, while visiting Vaishno Devi's temple.

We reached Jammu at 1.00 after our long 12 hours trip (it should take 9 hours). Originally we were suggested to take a bus from the station, but the bus station was 6 kms away. Owing to lethargy and sheer time pressure to start the first leg of our climb, we took a taxi. It took us 1.5 hrs to reach Katra.

There are a number of hotels and with flexible rates. I stayed in Bhawani's Paradise and payed Rs.1000 for a night for a Family AC room (which can accommodate 4 people). You can also go for a double/single room for half the cost. Additional beds would cost extra. Ensure that the room is comfortable as you will require it on your way back. Rooms are also available in the Bhavan (where the temple is), you can look for more information on Maa Vaishno Devi's Board Website. The board only second to Tirupati is generating funds. Our taxi driver informed us that last year the contribution is close to Rs.2000 crores (I'm sure this is over hyped figures). But the amenities that the board has provided is spic and span.

I was amazed with the electric mood that was prevailing across the devotees and so ifectious it was that I also got into the mood. Devotees come from from all places, one notable devotee is a 60 year old gentleman, comes here every month, travels all the way from airport to the temple on foot (about 70 kms). I saw a few who would crawl all the way to the temple, many sing in groups and dance; all of this will ensure that on the way to the temple you won't miss any fun. Even the ambiance is electric. You can find all the types of item to eat (except non-veg) i found corn, cafe coffee day outlet on the way. There are enough and more places where you can get photographs with Mata on the background. You will see Vaishno Devi's VCD (Gulshan's Kumar T-Series stores are ubiquitous) and bhajan's made on a popular Bollywood number. the excitement in the area will make you stop at all these interesting areas. In the festivity, the mood is set right by the Dholwalas accompanied by a set youngsters doing a bhangara jig.

I was surprised with the amenities available on the way- softy, juice stall, and notable in one of the stalls Golden corn. Even Cafe coffee day has its outlet. The food is primarily vegetarian, and the board has ably ensured that one is not devoid of food when they need it the most. All these services is 24 hours.

The total stretch is 12.5 kilometers. As I mentioned earlier Adkuwari is 5.5 Kms and Mata Vaishno Devi's Temple is another 7 Km uphill from there. Baba Bhairon's Mandir is 5 Kms from Mata Vaishno Devi. Ideally, the whole journey is a 3 day affair.

We started climbing at 6.30; we arranged the passes from my cousin brother in Army. Now a days there is lot of security check in at various points, because of which we actually started at 7.30. My father took a Pony to complete his journey till Adkuwari; which costed 160 Rs. "Palkis" for those who can barely walk is also available, these guys do only complete journey for Rs.2500. It was quite a delight to see the ways they walked in tandem and on the steep steps carrying a person on their shoulders. We also took a "Pithhu" to carry a luggage, as before darshan one has to take a bath. You should not pay more than 160 for one way. Deccan and one other company has started Helicopter service- one way fare per person is Rs.2500.

We took our dinner break in Adkuwari. We had the staple Rajma Chawal. Though further on there were options of Vada Sambhar and Dosa, but we were quite satisfied with the meal. We decided to skip Adkuwari, as we were already 3 hours behind schedule, and therefore we headed straight to Vaishno Devi. This new route, which we took, is new and saved us 2 Kms in total (this would make the total distance from Adkuwari to Bhawan as 5.5 kms). This route was relatively straight and without steep climbs. Here also we took three-four breaks for tea and coffee.

We had started panting when we reached Bhavan. The place was full with devotees, running into hundreds and thousands. Lot of them sleeping on the corridors and sides (you can get woollen blankets, "Kambals" for hire). There are also lockers to keep your belongings as leather items, bags and mobiles are not allowed in the temple. We got a place to sit near the bathing space and took turns to go. Priya went first and I was last. the water was freezing cold, but the contact took away all the stress and pain of the journey (actually I was contemplating not to take this holy dip). The cue for the darshan was long, however due to the defence connection, we had a much shorter line. "Jai Mata Di" was being chanted all along.

We first came to the cave where traditionally one would enter to go for darshan. This was during the earlier days. At this point in time and being completely ignorant, I thought this was the darshan and I was ready to head back. However soon we can to an open area and soon after entered a cave. Darshan was short and quick, it would have lasted for about 30 seconds till I was pulled away by one of the guards. On our way back we tied the cloth on the railings (traditionally one is supposed to wish and then tie and also open once the wish gets fulfilled).

We headed back at 3.30 and walked back much faster. We completed the descend in 4 hours flat, with only one break for tea and checked into the hotel at 8.30. I crashed out as soon as I entered the room as my body legs were aching. I wished there were some "Pithhu" who could massage my legs but alas. When we got up, we went for a great Vaishno dhaba lunch and ate to our heart's delight.

There was still a loose string in this journey, our return tickets were not confirmed. Actually we didn't bother much, as we did before the start of the journey. We had come this far and our faith that Mata would take care of the rest kept us going. Our return through Rajdhani was comfortable and we slept through the way!

December 17-20th, Munnar- My first leg of Kerala trip

If Kerala is green and beautiful, Munnar is it's first impression. To those intending to visit Kerala, I recommend Munnar as the first destination. It's secluded, lush green, exactly as you would have seen it in the pictures and other travel guides. It is however more beautiful than any literature would deem it to be. Cardamon plants, a number of tea gardens, mostly belonging to Kanan Devan (19% of this tea estate is owned by Tata tea), and laid back lifestyle fill the rest of the description on Munnar.

My wife and me Priya had originally planned for Tea County, a place where Mr Bachhan had stayed for sometime. It was recommended by my travel agent and I was completely sold on the property. This was until I met Jeevan Jagga from MakeMyTrip.com, who had recently been to Munnar. MakeMyTrip.com has a different division, which looks into hotel contracting, inspect property as per their stringent guideline to make it accessible to shoppers like us to simplify the search process. Jagga has been doing this for a while, recommending hotels to MakeMyTrip.com and build the hotel's inventory. He recommended Tall Tress, a relatively new property. For a person new to Kerala, it came as a surprise, as I expected him to corroborate my travel agent suggestion, leaving me in complete quandary. The decision was difficult, but till today I don't regret a bit.

Munnar is about 5 hours from Cochin airport, and is located on Anna Mudi hills, the highest mountain in this part of the country. You would see lot of scenic views, items to eat (pineapple with rock salt is quite popular) and carrots on the way. Since this was my first visit to Kerala, i was quite absorbed in the thoughts and plans for the destination. The appearance of tea gardens, broke my reverie and announced the arrival of Munnar. Tall Trees was on the outskirts of the city and the approach was long. I was quite skeptical on my way to the property and it became stronger as we went through unfinished terrains. The road took serpentine curves, and at times there wasn't even pukka road. We came across Abad Palace and also Sienna Village (another great resort that we could have finalised and seen on Holiday IQ). Given a choice we would have changed our decision then and there. It was sunset by the time we reached Tall Trees. The resort was beautiful, peaceful and green. It was one of the best places that we have been to.

Tall Tress is located amongst stunning verdant woodland and cardamom plantation. There are a number of cottages located (about 26 in total). The office is near the entrance, where as the cottages are located uphill across the resort in different locations. We were given a very warm welcome in form of an upgrade from a deluxe cottage to a luxury cottage. These luxury cottages are duplex in structure, the dining and sitting arrangement in on the top and the bedrooms a floor below. There were two balconies, one in front of the sitting arrangement and the other in front of the bedroom. Both the rooms had a great view.

We freshened up and went straight to the cafe; we were hungry and needed replenishment. The cafe was quite an uphill walk but we longer time to decide the menu. Finally Priya ordered simple masala tea and pizza. Munnar tea, which we had heard about so much, was finally being served; our expectation was high and we waited patiently. The tea was aromatic and flavoured with my favourite spice- cinnamon and ever since coming back from the trip, I have been experimenting to get the very same blend haven't had success on that front. I'm quite hopeful that my struggle will soon end.

The best part about Munnar is no cellphone connection (possible BSNL/MTNL could have coverage but we were not interested to verify). We headed straight for the market to a liquor shop, to celebrate our coming. The market was contrary to our scenic quite surroundings and was abuzz with activity. There was only one liquor shop, and the queue was long. Ebby our tour guide and driver was smart enough to get an "English Liquor" in no time and a beer for himself. Tapioca chips and "Murruku" were our other usual selections for the day. We came back loaded with ammunition for the evening. The sun had already set and the mood was slowly seeping in.

During the conversation we had already decided to buy some place near our resort, so that we can come as often as we could. Our bright future plans was interrupted by a phone ring, announcing the start of dinner. We were in no hurry, and soon within an hour, after a couple of drinks, we started our march uphill again. The dining area was right opposite to the cafe area, but more inside and towards the hill side. That night it was lit with candles, the roof was made of glass and so clear that we see the starry night. The food was not that great but the ambiance made up for the romantic dinner. There are few other places where you can go and eat like Raspy's for Biryani and Hotel brothers (in the city).

Our first place in Munnar was a Tea Museum. It is a very popular Munnar attraction and very commercial. We were escorted by a Tea guide who took us through the process of tea manufacturing and also gave us a little knowledge of how tea is differentiated. "CTC" stands for Crush-Tear-Curl, and has an elaborate manufacturing process. It has better colour and strength as compared to "Organic" or leaf tea. Munnar Tea has superior quality of CTC and dust (another variation of CTC which giver more colour and strength compared to CTC). The Museum also had antiques dating back to early 1900s, with pictures of colonial India and glimpses from the early tea factory. We spend an hour here and inspired by the aroma and expertise, we went to Kannan Devan Tea Factory outlet to purchase Tea (it is customary souvenir for Munnar tourists). Ebby took us to a place called "Munnar Woods" for lunch. It was relatively upmarket and so was the food. Since these were the first few days in Kerala, we were craving for Kerala Curry, Brown rice and Sambhar. I decided to go for another place which I had seen on the way.

One should ideally spend 2 days in Munnar, but we decided to extend it to three on the second day. We did the regular tourist number by going for the church, from where one could also see the mosque and the temple, epitomising the secular culture. We also went to Devikulam dam (about 10 Kms away from Munnar, which is a regular tourist attraction and offers boat ride). By the time we came back to the hotel, we were very tired and crashed out.

Munnar is also famous for Neelkurinji, a wild plant which flowers once in 12 years; 2007 happened to be the fateful year. It is said that the whole valley turns voilet with the bloom. We went to Eravikulam Santuary with the expectation and loaded camera. Much to our frustration we realised that season was over, but manged catch glimpses of a plant with some faded flower. The sanctuary is also famous for Nilgiri Thar, an endangered species of Goat, found only in these areas. The animal appeared quite dangerous from a distance and would not eat anything offered to it, we ignored it. There is also a small Museum which houses Thar's history and some stories on other animals found in the area. Government has made good arrangement to keep the area clean and arrange for a transport.

During our third and last day in Munnar, the zing and enthusiasm was missing in our our dinner as we knew this won't be there tomorrow. We were back again dining below the open skies, light music and getting treated like a king by our steward Viji. Though we spent a total of three days in Munnar, we could have spent one extra day and visit the nearby attractions like Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary (45 Kms) and sandalwood forest (about 10 kms). Living in a tea plantation is also possible if one could plan in advance.

Irrespective of the fact that we could have stayed for years together in Munnar, we headed straight for Thekkady the next day. The city didn't seem to leave us, tea gardens followed us till many kms and hours, while me and Priya were discussing plans to settle down in Munnar some point in time.